I would like to share some of my tips and tricks for shuttle tatting. Some are tried and true tricks, while some are just my personal preference and might not work for everyone.
You are welcome to try them if you think they might be useful to you too.
Needle vs shuttle:
I started with the needle, but switched to shuttle due to difficulties matching needles to threads and also I prefer the thinner lines obtained with a shuttle.
Shuttles:
I prefer bobbin shuttles, since post shuttles don't give me the ability to unwind only a bit of the thread, instead of an entire revolution around the post. Also, the only post shuttles I could find were bad quality.
For holding more / thicker thread a good flat shuttle could be used.
I always keep my shuttles without bobbins inside when not using them. It helps relax the plastic of the shuttle so it doesn't get loose too quickly. I also try to alternate shuttles and bobbins for the same purpose.
If the shuttle is a bit loose, pressing down on the sides gently when it is empty helps.
I removed the crochet hooks from all my shuttles to avoid snagged thread and to be able to hold them in any orientation.
Thread:
I prefer cotton thread, if possible tightly twisted and not too fluffy, so it slides smoothly and doesn't catch. I don't like very slippery thread (such as polyester, silk, microfiber etc.), because it is difficult to work with and the ends tend to slip away.
To avoid twisted thread, I drop the shuttle after unwinding thread and let it spin, but stop it after a few rotations and then let it turn again, then stop it again etc., until it no longer turns. The stopping breaks the inertia, which would make the shuttle spin too much and untwisting the thread would take longer.
When I have to wind 2 shuttles continuously, I wind all the thread on one shuttle (the one with most thread) then tie the end to the other bobbin and wind from the first bobbin to the second.
Invisible thread is very useful for sewing in beads or a brooch back to an already tatted piece. It is very thin and sturdy and, as the name says, it is almost invisible.
Holding the thread:
To make chains, I wrap the thread around the 4 long fingers of my left hand (a little after the second knuckle) 3 times; sometimes just 2 times is enough, if the shuttle's weight can counterbalance the pull from the other side. I never wrap the thread around individual fingers, because that usually hurts them. I also don't close any of the fingers. I adjust tension by moving my fingers slowly. This hold helps me avoid cramps and sore skin.
Hiding ends:
I almost always hide the ends. My favourite method is whip stitching in the double stitch caps. I don't like hiding the ends inside the stitches along the core thread, because it creates extra bulk. The magic thread trick also has never worked for me.
I leave ends long enough to sew in easily with a needle, but not too long to tangle too much.
Hiding ends that are too short for inserting the needle through the stitch caps can be done by inserting the unthreaded needle in position first, bringing the eye closer to the thread end. I then thread the needle and pull it through. Then I unthread the needle and repeat with the next stitch. It is tedious, but for me this is the best solution.
I tie together ends from adjacent elements that should be connected. I often use double knots for that, so they don't easily come undone.
If possible, hiding ends in a single shuttle split ring is a good idea.
I am usually not afraid of adding new thread, using up thread that is not enough for one project and hiding multiple thread ends.
To avoid hiding beginning threads, I try to use either shuttle and ball or two shuttles wound continuously, if I am only using one colour.
A very thin needle for sewing in ends can avoid distorting the existing stitches.
I try to sew ends regularly, to avoid having a tangled mess of threads.
I try to avoid sewing in two or more tail ends in the same stitches. This is to avoid bulkiness and snagging the previously hidden end and causing it to unhide.
Tension:
All these help me keep an even thread tension:
- using a bobbin shuttle
- keeping the bobbins and shuttles in good condition and avoiding shuttles becoming loose
- a consistent hand movement
- more or less the same lengths of unwound thread used for each stitch and unwinding gradually
- holding the previously made stitches in the pinch of my left hand and moving my fingers forward as I make new ones
- flipping the stitches by closing and opening my left hand
- gently pulling the shuttle downwards while sliding the stitch into place; that way I can control the tension without the bobbin unwinding
- a relatively secure way of holding thread around my left hand when making chains, but which also allows unwinding more thread as needed
Sometimes a tighter tension is needed, for example when making coasters or jewellery. Tension consistency is important then too.
I set the ring in position with the two ends together, then pinch it all between my thumb and forefinger before pulling closed. I try to avoid bunching double stitches together by not pulling rings tighter when they are already closed or tightening chains. This helps keep the sizes of my chains and rings consistent throughout.
When enlarging the loop on my hand when working a ring, I always hold the already formed double stitches in my pinch, to avoid them bunching together.
Joins:
I accidentally discovered a new (for me anyway) way to make a normal join. I was trying to replicate the invisible join, but I didn't understand what "popping the thread to the other side" means. My join is just as usual, but after driving the shuttle upwards through the loop, I also drive it downwards through the lower half loop formed by the shuttle thread and the bottom side of the original loop. I then pull gently, to avoid the thread shifting. In that way, the thread is a bit encapsulated to the right. This acts as the first half of the next double stitch. I also noticed that the bit of colour showing in the join is smaller than with a regular join. I also like the extra sturdiness of this join. This is now the only way I make joins anymore.
I almost never do lock joins, because I can't get them to not create a bulk or a gap (sometimes both). Instead, I pull shuttle 2's thread (or the ball thread) through the picot to use for joining. This join also allows the core thread to slide freely. I actually use my encapsulation method for this too.
I usually don't shy away from folded joins. My trick for remembering what to do is that the work is folded to bring the picot in a comfortable position. Then I do everything in reverse:
- instead on putting the crochet hook in front to back, I do it back to front
- instead of driving the shuttle downwards through the loop, I drive it upwards (for my encapsulation I then also drive it downwards through the half loop)
It really helps keep the join loop from twisting if I hold its base in my pinch.
Small joining picots (just big enough to get the thread through comfortably) are generally better looking. The exception that I have found is when joining two rings that originate from the same point (without overlapping them). In this case, a slightly bigger picot will make the rings sit better next to each other, instead or looking distorted.
Picots:
I generally remove most decorative picots, keeping only a minimum. I'm not fond of picots every couple double stitches, to me the end result looks hairy.
Picots can be useful anchoring points when sewing in appliques.
Untatting:
I prefer to untat, rather than cut mistakes. It takes longer, but cutting usually leaves ends too small to sew in comfortably.
I avoid splitting the thread by inserting the crochet hook with the hook part facing downwards inside the stitch caps and pulling the caps upwards.
Opening closed rings is easily done from a picot by pulling the core thread downwards, while holding the stitches before the picot in place in the pinch. Then the stitches after the picot are slid over the extended core thread until the regular ring loop is formed and is big enough to work with.
Opening rings can be avoided if there is only a little amount of thread left on the shuttle. I unwind the thread completely off the shuttle, then untat starting with the last stitch made, sliding the entire shuttle thread out from each knot.
Extra tools:
I use a crochet hook that matches the size of the thread I am using. This way I don't enlarge picots and don't split the thread. This is one of the reasons why I use a separate crochet hook.
I use a big eye needle (a very thin flexible needle that is just one big eye when open) to string multiple beads quickly. I can also use a crochet hook for grabbing just one bead, if the bead hole is not too small.
I use a pair of pliers to pull the needle through any particularly tight stitch caps when sewing in ends. This is another finger saver and I wholeheartedly recommend it to needle tatters who have trouble sliding stitches off the needle. Pliers are also useful for opening metal jewellery rings or bending wire.
Patterns:
I prefer diagrams over written patterns, though I can only write my own patterns or notes in words.
I often adjust patterns to suit my taste and tatting methods.
I try to plan ahead for a new pattern and try to estimate how much thread I need on each shuttle, how to add beads and how many (if necessary), if I can use shuttle and ball (for convenience). I keep notes on all the patterns that work out, in case I need to use them again.
To measure thread quickly, I spread my arms out to estimate 1 meter and then wind it on the bobbin, then measure again, then wind again, etc.
Some best practices overall:
I have pets, so using a clean work surface and clean hands helps me avoid dirty tatting with fur in it.
All my tatting benefits from wet blocking, as it evens out the tension and helps items to lie flat (if that is what they are supposed to do). If anything, it cleans the lace a bit after handling.
My stiffener of choice is diluted wood glue, because it doesn't harm the thread or beads and doesn't leave noticeable residue. However, just like on wood, it does not last forever.
I have a small bag with only the usual tools and things I need for the current projects. I carry the little bag with me for tatting on the go.
I only have 2-3 projects ongoing at a time, which are mostly small items. This helps me feel a sense of achievement with my sporadic tatting.
I once sorted out all my craft supplies and tools and found places for each. As soon as I am done with a ball of thread or pack of beads or special tool, I put it back in its place. It helps me find things when I need them and know what I have (that also helps me avoid buying something anew).
I like pretty supplies, but I also already have pretty supplies, so I like to use up what I have, rather than buying new ones. My stash is quite varied and I always have staple supplies (white, black, other single colour threads, 6mm beads and pearls and matching sand beads, jewellery findings such as metal rings, clasps and earring findings).
